The holy city of Varanasi is one of those cities of India, which are as popular outside as they are within India. However, this city is actually an old crumbling community of the era of temples, palaces, kings, queens, courts, courtiers, dancers, musicians and courtesans. It is one of the oldest towns of India. As a centre of education also it dates back to more than 2000 years. Gautam Buddha gave his first sermon at a place called Sarnath, a few kilometres away from Varanasi. Religious scholars not only from India but also all over the world congregated here. Today the Benaras Hindu University that prides on being Asia’s biggest Universitry is furthering the tradition of education.
The original name of Varanasi is Kashi. The origin goes to a Sanskrit word ‘kas’ meaning light. The city being the seat of religious and spiritual learning was perhaps thought of as an elucidation of life and thereby the name. Mythology also holds that this was the original piece of land created by the creator of the Universe, Lord Shiva after which the rest of the Universe came into being. The name Varanasi also has its origin from the rivers Varun and Asi between which Varanasi exists. The onslaught of various cultures on the city converted its name to Benaras. Now it has officially been re-christened Varanasi.
Varanasi the holy city is famous for its spiritualism and cosmic impressions. It is a city where life and death both are held in equal veneration. People from all over the country come here in the belief that if death comes to them in this city then the doorway to the heavens awaits them. It is the ultimate achievement of ‘moksha’. ‘Moksha’ or ‘Nirvana’ as it is also popularly known means freedom from the perpetual cycle of birth and death and again rebirth. Another element of mystique in this city is the holy river Ganga. The Ganga the most important river of the Indian Subcontinent is held much in reverence since it is believed that all human sins are washed off by a dip in its sanctified waters. The water may have greyed with pollution but not the belief of the people who travel sometimes thousands of miles to come to the holy city and to the holy river.
The river perhaps is the lifeline of this city. It is difficult to envisage a Varanasi without the Ganga. The narrow alleys, which pass off for streets, covered with the dirt, grime, and betel nut stains lead to the ‘ghats’ or the banks of the river. These ‘ghats’ are the hub of the religious ceremonies of the Hindus. From the cremation of dead and associated rites to celebration of birth and its various rituals, all are adhered to on these ‘ghats’. The city is in fact situated along the bank of this river and one can view the skyline of Varanasi with its old but dilapidated palatial homes and slums to the modern day buildings. The view of sunrise over the river Ganga is perhaps the most soothing and beautiful aspect of the whole trip to Varanasi. It warrants a boat ride on the river to purely savour this experience. At the times of worship or ‘puja’ as it is locally called, the air is resonant with the chanting of mantras and hymns. The whiff of incense and flowers, the fire and the smoke all make you realise what a small speck you are in the whole scheme of things.
However, river Ganga is only one-sided view of the religious charisma of Varanasi. The city is also known for its beautiful and old temples. In fact Varanasi is dotted with temples. You will find one around every turn. The religious activities in these temples reach a feverish peak during the festivals. No doubt the devout Hindus consider Varanasi more as a pilgrimage place than a tourist destination.
Any visit to this place is not complete if you do not buy the world famous Benarsi Saris. A sari is the traditional dress of Indian women and her wedding trousseau must contain a Benarsi sari. These saris are made using fine silk threads, which are then intricately woven together to produce a magnificent piece of art. The age-old brocade work on the saris using delicate golden threads is finding footing in the modern day fashion industry on dresses apart from the sari, too.
During the reign of Mughal rulers danced and music flourished in this city. Some of the famous Indian musicians and dancers can trace back the history of their art to Varanasi. Even today the streets of Varanasi are home to musicians and instrument makers who specialise in their fields. The city is often host to glittering classical dance and music festivals.
A city that mirrors India in itself can be an ideal tourist destination. If you are just a wee bit careful about yourself and your possessions you can make the trip fairly enjoyable and comfortable. Don’t trust strangers and make all arrangements of travel beforehand. Dress appropriately and modestly. Respect the traditional and cultural values of others and gain respect for yourself.
FROM ANOTHER SOURCE
Varanasi also called KASHI, city in southeastern Uttar Pradesh is located on the left bank of the Ganges River and is one of the seven sacred cities of the Hindus. Varanasi is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Its early history is that of the first Aryan settlement in the middle Ganges valley. By the 2nd millennium BC, Varanasi was a seat of Aryan religion and philosophy and was also a commercial and industrial centre famous for its muslin and silk fabrics, perfumes, ivory works, and sculpture. Varanasi was the capital of the kingdom of Kashi during the time of Buddha (6th century BC), who gave his first sermon at nearby Sarnath. The city remained a centre of religious, educational, and artistic activities as attested by the celebrated Chinese traveler Hsüan-tsang, who visited it in c. AD 635 and said that the city extended for about 5 km along the western bank of the Ganges.
Varanasi subsequently declined during the three centuries of Muslim occupation, beginning in 1194. Many of the city's Hindu temples were destroyed during the period of Muslim rule, and learned scholars fled to other parts of the country. The Mughal emperor Akbar in the 16th century brought some relief to the city's religious and cultural activities. There was another setback during the reign of the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb in the late 17th century, but later the Marathas came to rescue the city. Varanasi became an independent kingdom in the 18th century, and under subsequent British rule it remained a commercial and religious centre. In 1910 the British made Varanasi a new Indian state, with Ramnagar as headquarters but with no jurisdiction over the city of Varanasi.
In 1949, after Indian independence, the Varanasi state became part of the state of Uttar Pradesh. Varanasi has the finest river frontage in India, with miles of ghats, or steps, for religious bathing; an array of shrines, temples, and palaces rises tier on tier from the water's edge. The Dashaswamegh ghat with its peace and tranquility attracts all and sundry. The inner streets of the city are narrow, winding, and impassable for motor traffic. The sacred city is bounded by a road known as Panchakosi which every devout Hindu hopes to walk to visit the city once in a lifetime. More than 1,000,000 pilgrims visit the city each year.Among the city's numerous temples, the most venerated are those of Vishvanatha, dedicated to God Shiva, Sankatmochana, dedicated to the God Hanuman.
The Durga Temple is famous for the swarms of monkeys that inhabit the large trees near it. The Great Mosque of Aurangzeb is another prominent religious building. Two of the more important modern temples are those of Tulasi Manas and the Vishvanatha on the campus of the Banaras Hindu University. The city has hundreds of other temples. At Sarnath, a few miles north of Varanasi, there are ruins of ancient Buddhist monasteries and temples as well as temples built by the Maha Bodhi Society and by the Chinese, Burmese, and Tibetan Buddhists.
Varanasi has been a city of Hindu learning through the ages. There are innumerable schools and countless Brahman pandits, responsible for the continuation of traditional learning. There are also three universities, including the large and important Banaras Hindu University (1915), and more than a dozen colleges and high schools. The city is also a centre of arts and crafts and of music and dance. Varanasi is famous for its production of silks and brocades with gold and silver threadwork, as well as for wooden toys, bangles made of glass, ivory work, and brass ware.
ANOTHER ARTICLE
The Historical Background of Art In Varanasi
The golden era of the history of Indian paintings, begins with the paintings executed on the walls. The walls of the caves were the prime support, which early man first chose to express his feelings on which he transformed his art through Indian red and charcoal. These precious paintings were found on the stone blocks and on the walls of the different caves at Mirzapur, Bhopal, Manikpur, Singhanpur, Hoshangabad, Raigarh region, Panchmarhi, Raisen, Gwalior etc.
The tradition of wall paintings in India had attained its excellence in the caves of Ajanta, Bagh and Badami, during the period between 200 BC to 700 CE. All these paintings were very naturally and artistically created under the classical principles of an ideal art.
Varanasi being a cultural capital of India, nourishes her art, through which one can have a glimpse of the whole Indian culture. Every hook and corner of the city bears the wall paintings of Banaras. A unique co-ordination of the features of the local folk art, Rajasthani, Mughal and company art, present in these paintings are the special characteristics of these paintings.
Though the story of the cultural rise in Varanasi begins with the development of the human civilisation but before the excavations of Sarnath and Rajghat, we find no evident description of any form of art in varanasi. Art historians have not named it as 'Banaras' style as yet. Where as on the basis of the excavations of Sarnath and Rajghat, there are the solid evidences for the existing centre of the ancient art at Varanasi.
The lion capital of the Ashokan pillar from Sarnath, the stupa, the toys, the accessories and the terracotta sculptures from Rajghat are the early sources of the rich art of Varanasi. By ascertaining some painted toys from Rajghat, the existing tradition of art in Varanasi in the past can be concluded. Before 18th century we find no remainings of paintings from Varanasi. The main reason behind it was that due to Mughal's supremacy over India, the cultural progress of this city was minimum than other Mughal capitals. Though there should be the evidences for the wall paintings in Varanasi, but due to Mughal fanaticism, many architectures owing examples of wall paintings had been ruined.
On account of Lalji Mussawars residing in Varanasi in the advanced years of 18th century and his relation with a local artist Gwal Sikkhi, the art of Varanasi got influenced with Mughal features as well as Varanasi's traditional fun and festive mood. Further it met changes, influenced with company and Bengal style, respectively.
Though during the period of Maharajas of Banaras, there had not been any chronological order of the paintings over here, yet from the period of Maharaja Udit Narayan (1795-1835) we were having many dated examples of paintings. Possibly he himself got painted the walls of Kali Mandir, a private temple inside the Ramnagar Fort . We have the dated painting series of Ramacharitmanas and a dated painting portrait of Chetsingh of 1809 AD. Both have collected in Bharat Kala Bhawan, Varanasi. These paintings have characteristics of company style.
In 1835 CE, Shri Ishawari Narayan Singh, the then Maharaja of Banaras was the main patron of art and learning. The art connoisseur Rai krishna Das has written in his book 'Bhartiya Kala',-" Maharaja of Banaras patronised the local artists as Jahangir did in the Mughal period . By the time of Sri Ishwari Narayan Singh, the company style had been spread all over the country after British's arrival in India. Company style comprises the features of realistic art which became the common ground for the painting of traditional Indian peoples' heart.
In 1824 CE an English traveller Pope Bishop Heber came to visit Banaras. Through his travelogue it is evident that company painting had become a status symbol in the contemporary society. An European lady traveller had specially appreciated the paintings of Varanasi.
The Company paintings of Banaras were produced by the local artists as well as by the foreign artists. Among these paintings there were some Landscapes of the Ghats made by Thomas Danials and his nephew William Danials. To sketch these landscapes they travelled by boat in the river Ganges, from Kolkata to Kanpur. Many of these drawings are in collection in Bharat Kala Bhawan, Varanasi.
The few of the paintings are in collection of Late Sri Vibhuti Narayan Singh, the then Maharaja of Banaras, like the Ramayan series, executed on the walls of the Ramnagar Fort. Besides, there are the wall paintings with features of Rajasthani, Mughal and Company style. A few of them are on the walls of Bhonsala Mandir at Bhonsala Ghat and on Sheetal ka Akhadra subjecting God Vishnu, Shankar and Ganesh.
In the beginning of the 20th century the artists of Varanasi were a few one who were the followers of the Bengal school. The subjects they adopted for their expression were drawn from the literary sources from myths, legends and history. Shanti Ranjan Bose, a brilliant student of Nandlal Bose, artist of Bengal school and Ranada Ukil, who founded Ukil School over here, were the main artists who nourished the stream of art at Varanasi.
In 1920 Late Sri Rai Krishna Das founded a museam 'Bharat Kala Bhawan' in the Banaras Hindu University campus. An ancestral artist Ustad Sharda Prasad and a Neplease artist Sri Karnman Singh prodused many paintings in traditional indian style at Bharat Kala Bhawan.
The beginning of a Fine Arts School by the University at Birla Sanskrit Mahavidyalay in 1949, gave many artists a platform to work for the sake of art, to express their art forms through and to train many new aspirants. K.S. Kulkarni the first Dean of the Faculty of Visual arts, J.M. Ahivasi, Prof. B. S. Katt, and A. P. Gajjar, were the early artists of Varanasi. Sri Dilip Das Gupta and Sri K.S. Jena are a few of the most senior presant artists of Varanasi.
Apart from these, the tradition of creating litreture in the feild of art at Varanasi has been very significant. In the beginning of the nineteenth centuary, the art historian Dr. Vasudev Shran Agrawal wrote a book ' Bhartiya Kala' which is the base of studing Indian art history. He analysed and gave a new aesthetic sense by combining Indian art with Vedic culture and middle east's art history. Following the tradition, Sri Moti Chand, a bosom friend of Sri Vasudev Sharan Agrawal, studied Indian art and gave a new examination and a new concorance to Indian art history. Dr. Rai Anand Krishna Das is also having deep insight in this subject. His disciple Dr. Banu Agrawal flourished Indian Art History by writing many books, 'Bhartiya Kala Ke Mool Srota' and 'Malwa Painting in Valmiki Ramayan' etc. Another Scholar Mr. Anjan Chakraverti has also written a few books on Indian Miniature PaintingThe Vishvanath Temple
For at least a thousand years, Vishvanath has been the preeminent Shiva Linga in Varanasi. Vishvanath is also called Vishveshvar. Both names mean "the lord of all".
Despite its fame, today's Vishvanath Temple has none of the magnificence, architectural splendor or antiquity of India's great classical temples in Orissa or South India. It was built as recently as the late eighteenth century under the patronage of Queen Ahalyabai Holkar of Indore. The history of the previous temples that housed the linga of Vishvanath is, in a nutshell, the history of Varanasi over the past thousand years: a tale of repeated destruction and desecration. Today atop the ruins of old Vishvanath Temple, sit two different mosques, one built in the thirteenth century by Razia and one in the seventeenth century by Aurangzeb.
The present Vishvanath Temple is crowded into the interior of this tightly woven city and its architectural features are hidden from proper perspective behind the compound wall. As one approaches Vishvanath, there are flower merchants whose baskets are heaped with garlands of marigolds and jasmine.
Entering through the doorway from Vishvanath lane with their offerings of pushp (flowers), naivedya (sweets) and Gangajal (Ganges water), pilgrims come into a large rectangular courtyard in the center of which stands the temple itself. The Linga of Vishvanath is set into the floor of the temple in a square solid-silver recessed altar. The seat of the linga is also silver and the shaft of the Linga is smooth black stone.
Shiva is worshipped at five principal aratis during the day, from early in the morning until late at night. In the evening shringara arati, the linga is elaborately decked with flowers. At any time of day, however, worshippers will come, chanting "Har Har Bum Bum!" "Har Har Mahadev!" "Jaya Jaya Vishvanath Shambho!" "Om namah Shivaya!" They drench the linga with water, cover it with flowers and bilva leaves and bend down to touch it with their hands.
Although the interior of this important temple is neither very large nor very elaborate, the atmosphere of worship and devotion is powerfully impressive. The sights and sounds and smells of the temple, the shouting and chanting and clanging of bells, even the jostling of the crowds, all contribute to the aura of sanctity.
Not only does Hindu worship make use of the senses in directing them toward the divine, but the Hindu sensibility appreciates the intensity of devotion brought to place by the crowds of worshippers. As one of the priests of Vishvanath temple explained, "Countless people have come here with worshipfull hearts and have centered their devotion here at Vishvanath for hundreds of years. By virtue of that history, this place is special. There is a saying, 'Pilgrims make the tirtha.' So this linga is significant partly because so many people have centered their devotion here for so long."
- Kedar means the field where the crop of liberation grows. Therefore, that place became famous as Kedar, both in Kashi and in the Mountains.
The original Kedar is high in the Himalayas in the area called Uttara Khanda (North Country). There at an altitude of some 12000 feet sits Kedarnath.
The Himalayan Kedara is one of the India's twelve Lingas of Light (Dwadash Joytirlinga)
Kashi's Kedar is the anchoring temple of the southern sector of the city, called Kedar Khanda. It is one of the most popular and venerable temples of southern Kashi. Kedar is a river Temple, sitting at the top of an impressive ghat high above the water's edge. From the river, the temple is distinguished by its vertical red and yellow stripes.
Kedar is the religious focal point of the southern part of the city. There is a quite and deep piety almost palpable here and it is uninterrupted by the noisy throngs of pilgrims who hurry from Dashashvamedha Ghat to Vishvanath and its surrounding Temples. The pilgrims from outside don't generally go there. They don't know about it and the guides don't take them there as the pujaris in the temple don't give any payment for bringing pilgrims.
Kedar primarily remains a temple for the devoted residents of that area.
Sankata Devi
- Sankata Devi is known in Kashi as one of the most powerful temples in the entire city. Sankata Ji as she is called, is located high above the Sankata Ghat in the labyrinthine lanes of the city. Sankata Devi means "Goddess of Dangers", for she is the one who vanquishes dangers for her devotees. Sankata Devi was originally a Matrika, one of the mothers. In Puranic Stories she is called Vikat Matrika, the "Fierce Mother". Sankata Devi is a self-manifested goddess.
One of the city's busiest temples is that of the Goddess Durga, which sits on the large rectangular tank called Durga Kund in the Southern sector of the city. The Puranas locate Durga Ji (as she is called here) at her present site, and she has kept this place for many centuries. She is said to protect Varanasi from the south, as one of the fierce goddess guardians (Chandikas) of the sacred zone. Durga temple is full of monkeys who make their home in the Shikhar (Top) and porticoes of the temple, peeping and snarling at visitors.
According to some who serve this temple, the image of Durga was never established by human hands, but is a self-manifest image. It appeared here of its own accord.
The name Annapoorna means "She of Plenteous Food." She is called the "Mother of the Three Worlds," and she promises to those who come to her what only a mother can give, naturally and freely : food.
The present compound of Annapoorna is located near Vishvanath on the opposite side of the lane. Standing in the court of the compound is the temple itself, a small sanctum with a large pillared porch. The image of Annapoorna within the sanctum is a new one, established and consecrated in January 1977 in a series of pratishtha rites conducted by the Shankaracharya of Shringeri
Bhairav is considered a fearsome manifestation of Shiva. He wears a garland of skulls and carries a club of peacock feathers.
Kaala Bhairava, whose name, Kaala means both Death and Fate, in addition to meaning Black. He is the black one who has also assumed the duties of the God of Death in Kashi. Even Death, it is said, is afraid of Kaala Bhairava.
Kaala Bhairava's temple today is one of the most intresting in all Banaras. Entering from the street , through a door guarded by Bhairava's mount, the dog, one finds a fine courtyard, in the center of which is the main shrine of Bhairava. Only the silver face of kaala bhairava, garlanded with flowers, is visible through the doorway of inner sanctum. The rest of Bhairava's image-said to be pot-bellied, seated upon a dog, holding a trident-is hidden behind a cloth drapery.
For many centuries, this temple was a spiritual center in Kashi for the most severe of Shiva ascetics, the "Kapalicas" or "Skull-Bearers," and their later descendants, the Gorakhnathis. Today, however, the temple is no longer the exclusive domain of such extremist yogis and is, rather patronized by ordinary householders for his protective blessings.
Although this temple is popular and beloved among those who live under its influence in the surrounding Kotwalpuri section of the city, it is not a mandatory stop for pilgrims today. Generally people have darshana of Vishvanaatha and Annapoorna, and then they leave.
This pillar once stood in a Hindu temple complex, but in the time of Aurangzeb the temple was destroyed and the site became a muslim tomb site. The pillar, however, was wisely left intact. Muslims continued to permit some access to the pillar and received part of the offerings in return.
The pillar was once much taller than today. A French traveller tavernier saw the Laat Bhairava in 1665, during the reign of Aurangzeb, and described it as being thirty two to thirty five feet high.
In 1809, it was toppled during a spate of Hindu-Muslim rioting. The Laat was pulled down and its broken pieces hauled away. Only a stub remained, and it is that remainder, now capped in metal and covered on special accasions with a cloth sleeve, that is honoured today. One hundred and ninty years after this violent communal disturbance, the Laat Bhairava area is still vulnerable to communal conflict, and a police guard is permanently stationed there to patrol the area of Bhairava's Laat.